British chef Richard Hart has become the latest foreign culinary figure to rile Mexicans with his comments on the country’s famous pan dulce. In June, Hart opened his new bakery, Green Rhino, in Mexico City. His very controversial statements were made in an April episode of the PopFoodie Radio podcast, but received more widespread attention this month after food bloggers and commentators picked up and widely circulated on the comments.
Throughout the podcast, Hart articulated his conviction that Mexico lacks a deep-rooted bread culture. He denounced the now ubiquitous bolillo—as the traditional white roll is known—as “ugly” and “pretty cheap and industria in origin.” Furthermore, he disparaged the quality of Mexican wheat, labeling it as “not good” and “completely highly processed, full of additives.”
Hart has an astonishing history as a cook. He’s worked with high profile culinary figures, including Gordon Ramsay and René Redzepi, the genius behind the award-winning Noma restaurant in Copenhagen. His expertise has not protected him from pushback over his statements. Critics claim that his comments display a casual contempt for authentic Mexican cuisine.
Rodrigo Sierra, a Mexican food expert, noted the importance of the bolillo in Mexican society, stating, “The bolillo is a popular bread, a bread that has served most Mexicans, lower classes, middle class, upper class.” He insisted that as cheap food, the bolillo is central to the budget of many working families, making it the bread—and butter—of everyday life.
Sierra further added, “It’s not fair for you to stomp on where you’re going to open… if it’s not your country and that country is welcoming you with so much affection.” His comments reflect the anger expressed by so many who feel Hart’s statements showed a blatant disregard for the local culture.
Another critic Tania Medina argued that Hart’s attitude was elitist and condescending. “He wants to be the Christopher Columbus of bread,” she remarked, pointing to an apparent disregard for the rich traditions that define Mexican cuisine.
In response to that criticism, Hart went on social media this week to say he was sorry. He took responsibility for his error and shared original reflections on his affection for Mexico and its people.
“Since I moved to Mexico, I fell in love with the people and this city. However, my words did not reflect that respect – in this country I am a guest and I forgot to act like one.” – Richard Hart
Despite his efforts to clarify his intentions, many still feel that Hart’s comments underline a broader issue regarding foreign chefs making derogatory remarks about national cuisines. Rodrigo Sierra articulated a common sentiment: “Bread is embedded in our culture… it’s an important part of a Mexican’s ritual.”
Hart’s experience highlights the challenges that foreign chefs encounter when navigating enriching culinary landscapes. It is a testament to the need for cultural sensitivity and respect for indigenous practices.