American Eagle is suffering from a deluge of negative comments after kickstarting its new Back To School ad campaign with the help of actress Sydney Sweeney. Critics argue that the campaign employs language and imagery reminiscent of eugenics to market its denim products, raising concerns about the implications of such messaging in contemporary culture.
The campaign has wisely featured Sydney Sweeney, a 27-year-old actress with breakout success on Euphoria and The White Lotus. In the video game inspired promotional video, Sweeney is shown gluing a campaign poster over a large billboard advertisement. At the centre of it all is our poster, which prominently features the slogan “Sydney Sweeney has great genes jeans.” Many have roundly critiqued it for its racist undertones.
Critics point out that the advertisement’s focus on Sweeney’s physical attributes raises troubling questions about body image and the commodification of women’s bodies. A notable instance occurs when the camera zooms in on Sweeney’s breasts. It sticks in a way that is very leering and very unapologetic. This striking visual approach has inspired many to liken the campaign to the shameful, divisive marketing tactics of the past…
Sweeney herself states, “My body’s composition is determined by my jeans,” as she attempts to engage with the audience. Indeed, this clarification has not dampened the firestorm—rather, this explanation has stoked the flames of further indignation. After pulling out to a medium shot from closeup on her face, Sweeney yells, “Hey, eyes up here!” This line has been read by some as a reclamatory, defensive response to male gaze of the camera.
The campaign’s messaging and presentation have prompted comparisons to past advertising tactics that many find objectionable. Dr. Sarah Cefai, a social critic, expressed her dismay: “Honestly, what were they thinking, that a white supremacist fantasy has permission to be aired so conspicuously?” Her remarks speak to an increasingly echoed point among critics, that the campaign appeals to violent ideologies.
Sophie Gilbert, a media analyst, drew disturbing comparisons to past advertising campaigns famous for their shock value. She stated, “The slogan ‘Sydney Sweeney has good jeans’ obviously winks at the obsession with eugenics that’s so prevalent among the modern right.” Gilbert explained how this campaign was distinct, but similar to those anti-smoking ads from the 1990s. He noted in particular the example of the notorious Wonderbra advertising campaign “Hello Boys”, which objectified women.
One TikTok user even called the campaign “fascist propaganda.” They continued, “A blonde-haired, blue-eyed white woman discussing her superior genes—that’s Nazi propaganda. This perspective highlights how deeply entrenched societal issues related to race and beauty standards are reflected in contemporary marketing strategies.
The uproar over American Eagle’s campaign isn’t the first time. It rings similar to past controversies such as that of Calvin Klein, the fashion brand that came under fire for its sexually charged advertisements with underage models. In a 1980s Calvin Klein advertisement, Brooke Shields posed the question, “You know what gets between me and my Calvin’s? Nothing.” The implications and reception of such statements are still being felt in today’s contentious cultural climate.
This cycle of incendiary advertising raises an obvious, yet crucial, question. Is that what brands are prepared to do—throw ethics out the window on the altars of relevance and increased sales? Jane Cunningham, a marketing expert, commented on this trend: “They have the kind of language and expertise in terms of deconstructing media that I couldn’t have dreamed of utilizing as a teen during the 1990s. They’re smart enough to know when someone’s trying to pull a fast one on them — which is exactly what appears to be happening here.”
The campaign itself was controversial and attention-grabbing. To add complexity to the problem, models like Dov Charney and Terry Richardson are at the forefront of today’s advertising. Charney’s tenure at American Apparel eventually came to a close after a series of sexual misconduct allegations. These days he is busy developing new builder brand exclusive content. On the professional side of things, Richardson—long blacklisted due to his pushy photography style—has made his way back into magazines’ good graces in part by shooting for brands.
As American Eagle navigates this backlash, it faces the challenge of addressing public sentiment while attempting to maintain its brand identity. The dialogue around this campaign highlights larger societal conversations about representation, body positivity, and morals in advertising.