Fashion designer Willy Chavarria and Adidas Originals recently made a splash with the release of the “Oaxaca Slip-On.” This alternative shoe—based on traditional Mexican huaraches—was hit with heavy criticism. The shoe is a tribute to the unique cultural heritage of Oaxaca in southern Mexico. It was allegedly made in China without meeting, acknowledging or paying the Indigenous artisans whose designs inspired it. This has led to serious issues of cultural appropriation and the exploitative use of Indigenous communities in shadow work.
Oaxaca is a beautiful region rich with culture, history and tradition, as well as some of Mexico’s finest artisans. The artisanal huaraches, handwoven leather sandals with long-held links to the Indigenous community of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag, are key to the area’s culture. In return, these artisans have sustained their craft through the generations, a testament to their cultural richness on display at markets across Oaxaca.
Chavarria is the founder & chief creative officer of his own eponymous label. To many creatives, Kilgour’s tenure as Calvin Klein’s senior vice president of design until 2024 was a reason to rejoice, but he had one deep regret over it. He claimed his goal was to respect Oaxaca’s cultural spirit, but he didn’t meaningfully include or interact with the local community.
“The intention was always to honor the powerful cultural and artistic spirit of Oaxaca and its creative communities – a place whose beauty and resistance have inspired me. The name Oaxaca is not just a word – its living culture, its people, and its history.” – Willy Chavarria
Chavarria was not alone in his apology. In response to the heavy backlash, Adidas issued a statement admitting wrongdoing while stressing its appreciation for the cultural wealth found within Mexico’s Indigenous populations. Since the fallout, the company has released a public apology. It is determined to continue the engagement with the Yalálag community through a respectful dialogue that appreciates their cultural heritage.
“The ’Oaxaca Slip-On‘ was inspired by a design from Oaxaca, rooted in the tradition of Villa Hidalgo Yalálag. We offer a public apology and reaffirm our commitment to collaborate with Yalálag in a respectful dialogue that honors their cultural legacy.” – Adidas
Mexican President Claudia Sheinbaum was firm on the matter. She railed against how big businesses take, use, and profit from products, ideas, and designs from Native communities without giving credit or reparations. She emphasized how essential this support is for these hard-hit communities. She told us that restitution is important for all whose work has been stolen.
“Big companies often take products, ideas and designs from Indigenous communities.” – Claudia Sheinbaum
In reaction to the cultural appropriation controversy, Adidas has today pulled promotional images of the Oaxaca Slip-On off of its social media platforms. Chavarria has decided to do just that. Clearly both sides are extremely interested in getting to the table and talking. Their primary concern is how they can best “repair the damage” done to the Indigenous communities impacted by this breach.
Willy Chavarria’s admission of fault opens the door for continued and greater collaboration with Indigenous communities in the fashion space.
“I am deeply sorry that the shoe was appropriated in this design and not developed in direct and meaningful partnership with the Oaxacan community.” – Willy Chavarria