Each day at dawn, Uncle Thing wakes before the sun to work on his uncle’s durian farm in Raub, Malaysia. This routine entails so much more than harvesting fruit. It represents the achievement of a growing industry that has improved the standard of living for many family farmers in the area. Durians are having a bit of a moment right now, particularly in China. Uncle Thing’s story is powerful evidence of the riches this special fruit can bring.
Durian, sometimes called the “king of fruits,” is perhaps best known for its overpowering smell and spiked shell. Its popularity has really taken off lately. This is particularly true for the Musang King variety, which many people believe to be one of the most flavourful. This particular durian has gained the nickname “Hermès of durians” for Chinese consumers, a testament to its prestigious status and sought-after value.
Malaysia’s exploding image as the center for the world’s best durian varieties is helping to drive its increasing share of the global market. In 2024, China imported an impressive $7 billion in durians, a three-fold jump since 2020. More than 90% of the world’s durian exports now flow into China, highlighting the nation’s insatiable appetite for this exotic fruit.
Although Thailand and Vietnam have long supplied the majority of durian to China, Malaysia is quickly catching up. Uncle Thing’s farm seems to complete the circle of this inspirational trend. He would carefully sort harvested durians by grades, from Grade A to Grade C, mainly based on size and shape. These bigger, prettier fruits get better market prices, further increasing profit margins for the farmer.
Uncle Thing’s story is the success story of many happy farmers in Raub. He articulates the challenges faced by those in the industry by saying, “It looks like farmers make easy money. It’s not easy.” Yet, he remains optimistic about the future. That is not an excuse we can afford to make. All that’s left to us is to farm as well as we can and increase our productivity,” he continues.
Driven by China’s increasing appetite for durians, it has created a worldwide durian boom, providing windfall profits for growers all over Southeast Asia. The country’s push for “durian freedom” through trade agreements with Malaysia, Thailand, and Vietnam signals its commitment to expanding import capacity. At the same time, Hainan Province in China hopes to develop into a major producer of durian. Although Hainan’s first home-grown durians entered the market in 2023, they accounted for less than 1% of China’s total consumption that year.
As demand increases, consumer preferences are evolving. Xu Xin, a Chinese durian enthusiast and distributor, notes, “Maybe in the beginning we only liked durians that were sweet. Now we look for things like fragrance, richness and nuanced flavors.” This is an important shift that demonstrates a sophistication in consumer taste that is willing to pay premium dollar for high quality specialty varieties.
Uncle Thing’s farm plays a crucial role in supplying China’s evolving tastes. As soon as his durians are harvested, they’re flown directly to China, where they arrive at a market hungry for their consumption. A recent state media article encapsulates the sentiment surrounding this burgeoning industry: “In this durian competition, everyone’s a winner.” The article mentioned that Malaysian durians were flooding the market. This change will reduce reliance on Thai and Vietnamese suppliers, providing Chinese consumers with more options.
So each time Uncle Thing and other farmers get in on this growth period, they’re reaping record financial benefits. Chee Seng Wong, a fellow farmer, shares his perspective: “Even if only 2% of Chinese people want to buy durians, that’s more than enough business.” His observation adds emphasis to the tremendous – still somewhat hidden – potential represented by China’s consumer market.
“As oil palm plantations grow more profitable, the pattern of land clearing for agriculture in Malaysia begins to change. “Now it’s the other way round. They’re chopping oil palms to grow durians again,” Chee Seng Wong remarks, highlighting how lucrative durian farming has become compared to traditional crops.
Farmers such as Malaysian uncle Thing are taking advantage of the durian boom to prosper. All that work they’re doing is a big part of the nation’s economy. Local agriculture feeds an international market, exemplifying the power of niche markets to change communities. These markets respond to a rapidly changing consumer preference environment.