The fashion industry, already the subject of decades of criticism for their limited standards of beauty, is in hot water again, as size inclusivity comes and goes. Although the trend of adding plus-size models appears to be increasing, there’s proof that we’re slinking back into old ways of representing beauty. So far, these actions have made their biggest waves at New York, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks. Yet they illustrate perfectly the persistent challenges, nuance, and irony of body positivity in the fashion space.
Historically, the fashion sector has relied heavily on a limited number of faces, often showcasing “the same two or three faces” across various campaigns and runway shows. This practice furthers the marginalization of a massive portion of the population and continues the pursuit of both impossible and harmful beauty standards. Snag, a new clothing brand known for promoting body positivity, was recently criticized for using the wrong models. They field upwards of 100 complaints a day from people who say the models are “too fat.” This reaction is a good example of the disconnect between what consumers have come to expect and the growing, productive conversation on body diversity.
Nyome Nicholas-Williams, a model and activist who gained prominence in 2021 working with brands like Adidas, H&M, and Lululemon, represents a new generation of models advocating for size inclusivity. Brigitte Read, the founder of rising plus-size platform Snag, is dubious about this sudden influx of plus-size models. Asks Sheila, “Are we seeing a real change in the industry—or is this just the flavor of the month?”
In reality, the challenges go far beyond representation. They include more practical industry issues. Stylists like Matell find it difficult to be able to order clothing samples from designers that fit or even serve plus-size models. This challenge does a great job exposing the unwillingness to push diversity in fashion forward. The industry continues to struggle with its sense of self.
In fact, at the most recent New York Fashion Week in September 2023, more than 70 plus-size models walked the runway. Shockingly, that number dropped to a mere 23 for 2024. This decline begs the question of whether size inclusivity initiatives are sustainable. Sinéad O’Dwyer, a Central Saint Martins graduate, garnered worldwide attention for casting 17 plus-sized models in her show. This was the highest overall count ever for any designer. These examples show that there are many talented designers eager to advance the state of the practice, deeper systemic problems remain.
Milan Fashion Week has a well documented history of being the most size exclusive. In 2024, just ten runway appearances were on plus-size models. Paris Fashion Week this year showcased just 22 plus-size models. This breaks even the most optimistic of optimists’ advocates for body diversity hopes, yet still fails to live up to the promises made.
Karoline Vitto – opting not to do a runway show this season. In spite of this, she is absolutely passionate about making her collections diverse. Models like Skye Standley have emerged as rising stars in the industry since 2021, representing a shift towards a more inclusive narrative. Felicity Hayward, a fellow model and activist, considers 2023 to be a pretty big year for size inclusivity. Her experience is a reminder that though progress has been made, there is still much work to be done.
When combined with the cyclical nature of fashion trends, this creates a pendulum effect that frequently swings back and forth between inclusivity and exclusion. For “heroin chic” aesthetics to return so brazenly in 2024 is frankly alarming. It nudges us in the opposite direction, toward retrograde fantasies that worship emaciation over health and diversity. This trend is especially disheartening to advocates who have worked long and hard to create a more inclusive industry.
Earlier this year, in 2023, British Vogue declared models Precious Lee, Jill Kortleve and Paloma Elsesser as “the new Supers.” This acknowledgement is a big step forward for plus-size talent in the media. The new size inclusivity survey from Vogue Business reveals a staggeringly dismal picture. Runway reality Out of 198 fashion shows in 2024 only 12 designers cast plus-size models. This alarming reality shows the industry continues to struggle with its pledge towards meaningful inclusivity.