The fashion industry faces scrutiny as a major industrial polluter, responsible for around 10% of global carbon emissions. The rise of "fast fashion" has significantly contributed to this environmental crisis. In California, the issue manifests starkly, with approximately 1.2 million tonnes of textiles discarded in 2021 alone. Despite an estimated 95% of these materials being recyclable, only about 15% are reused. In response, California passed an innovative textile recycling bill in 2022. The legislation mandates that brands implement and fund statewide reuse, repair, and recycling programs. However, the bill is not set to take effect until 2028.
Meanwhile, organizations like Suay are taking immediate action. Suay has rescued 50,000 pounds of textiles to be cleaned, sorted, and upcycled by professional designers and seamstresses. Their "zero-landfill, zero-export system" ensures responsible handling of excess donations. Since 2017, Suay has diverted over four million pounds of textiles from landfills. These efforts are crucial, as a staggering 85% of all textiles end up in landfills, where they emit methane gas and leach harmful chemicals into the environment.
“One of the easier things individuals can do is to relieve the burden of someone else having to do it.” – Dr. Joanne Brasch
The current waste infrastructure in the fashion industry is severely lacking. Textiles are often dumped or exported to developing countries, exacerbating pollution and undermining local economies. As Jessica Kosak points out:
“One of the biggest impacts stemming from excess donations is the reappearance of these textiles in developing countries.”
Suay's efforts extend beyond recycling. They have built a digital community of over 500,000 people on Instagram, raising awareness and encouraging sustainable fashion practices. They also operate a free store for LA fire victims, offering stylish clothing and textiles to help individuals replace lost items with dignity.
“To see the overwhelming influx of textiles donations here in Los Angeles in response to the devastating wildfires just shows how the current systems in place have failed us all,” – Lindsay Rose Medoff
Experts suggest alternative approaches to donating clothing. Selling wearable pieces on platforms like Depop, Poshmark, ThredUp, or eBay can be more effective. The proceeds from such sales can then be donated to those in need. This method also encourages buyers to value their purchases more highly.
“You’re attaching value even if you’re selling a fast fashion item for $10,” – Jessica Kosak
California's textile recycling bill represents a significant step towards addressing the fashion industry's environmental impact. However, the delay in its implementation highlights the urgent need for more immediate solutions. Organizations like Suay demonstrate that innovative approaches can make a difference now.
“I think disasters like these bring out the best and the worst of our systems, which are really not designed for this volume of any particular product,” – Dr. Joanne Brasch