This is all a time when the centuries-old tradition of crafting Kolhapuri sandals, which stems from the 12th century, is being threatened by new challengers. This collection comes alarmingly close to their unique handmade sandals, while not recognizing the cultural makers. The artisans of Kolhapur, a city home to thousands of craftsmen, find themselves grappling with rising production costs and a market increasingly dominated by mechanization.
Anil Doipode, a local Kolhapuri sandals vendor laments that due to financial stress on artisans. “Leather has become expensive and pushed up costs,” he explains. This shift has reduced the result of a day’s work to a mere 8-10 pairs of sandals. Each pair sells for about $8 to $10 dollars. Especially in a time where profit margins are thinner than ever, the fight to stay afloat is unfortunately more earnest than fictional.
The basis of Kolhapur’s artisans’ pride is embodied in this deep relationship between maker and craft. Sadashiv Sanake, an artisan, who had never heard of Prada’s show until the BBC played him the footage. He said it caused him the most deep frustration that their efforts didn’t feel recognized. “Under their label, the value [of Kolhapuri sandals] is going to increase manifold,” he stated. He urged the fashion industry to consider royalty-sharing, adding, “We want some share of that profit to be passed on to artisans for their betterment.”
Today, few than 5,000 artisans in Kolhapur still practice this traditional craft. Sunita Satpute, an artisan member, explains that she only makes $4-$5 per day depending on the order. Her kids aren’t going into the business. This decision is indicative of a broader pattern of younger generations shying away from this historically revered vocation.
With constant changes in regulations, the industry is under even more stress. In 2015, the state of Maharashtra passed a law banning cow slaughter and banning the sale and consumption of beef. Consequently, artisans had to learn to use buffalo leather instead. This ban has increased production costs even more and made the artisans’ task of competing in an ever more mechanized world even more difficult.
Rohit Balkrishna Gavali, another local artisan, describes the unintended consequences of Prada’s design decisions. “The design Prada used wasn’t even very popular, but now people are asking for it,” he remarked. His customers come from Dubai, the United States, and Qatar. He adds a critical perspective: “It would be nice if it brought respect and better prices for those keeping this tradition alive.”
In reaction to these persistent issues, acclaimed designer Ritu Beri calls on the industry to rethink the system. “Take Chikankari (a delicate hand-embroidery style from Lucknow), Ikat (a cloth-dyeing technique), mirror work. They’ve all been used repeatedly. The artisans remain invisible while brands profit from their inspiration,” she stated. And in doing so, ethical recognition becomes crucial. She encourages India to push for royalty-sharing and co-branding agreements, which honor the contributions of the artisans.
The Indian government catapulted these humble sandals to fame in 2019 by giving Kolhapuri sandals Geographical Indication (GI) status. This designation protects the name and shape of the sandals from imitation in India. It hopes to protect this highly specialized heritage craft as the commercialization of the industry increases.
Artisans such as Lalit Gandhi feel their craft and passion run so deep, it’s in their blood. “I learned to carve as a young boy,” he muses, speaking to the multi-generational connections that often tie families to this unique and traditional art form. As economic pressures mount and respect for their work dwindles in a rapidly changing marketplace, Kolhapuri artisans find themselves at a crossroads.