Washington, D.C.—The nation’s local restaurants—proudly the most diverse and entrepreneur-laden segment of the local economy—are in crisis. The recent crackdowns on immigration have proved daunting across the city. José Andrés, a famous DC-based restaurateur, articulated his concern for other industry workers. He stressed the underreported climate of fear that has driven thousands of them to remain at home. Elizabeth Rodriguez, a Salvadorian immigrant who owns a restaurant in the heart of D.C., finds herself grappling with dwindling business and mounting financial pressures.
Since that time, Rodriguez’s business has continued parttime, taking orders from long-time customers who picked up the phone to call in an order. The doors have remained shut to walk-in customers. For the last two weeks she’s been unable to pay her employees. Usually, she gives them an average of $500 a day. There’s no doubt that things got worse after former President Trump’s crackdown on August 11. As a result, her restaurant now receives only $300 a day.
Rodriguez summed up his concern with the harsh reality, “It is a very heinous thing. The fear has gone rampart through the small business restaurant community and their employees and it’s just really…it’s horrible. That’s not why the clients come either. We largely built our business on the backs of construction workers. The key, however, is that they compiled these into enough volume that they could regularly place umbrella orders for their classmates. And they haven’t worked all month.”
Rodriguez is looking at ways to diversify her business model if, or when, she’s able to reopen. She is even considering dropping her restaurant’s no-delivery policy and adding delivery. She recognizes that a lot of her would-be customers are afraid to even leave their homes due to safety concerns.
José Andrés, who has established a reputation for advocating for immigrant rights and supporting local businesses, took to social media to comment on the situation affecting restaurants in D.C. As he noted, restaurants are going to close. Gun-toting troops and federal agents terrorizing civilians are instilling fear and deterring Americans from protesting peacefully. His statements illustrate the sweeping climate of intimidation that has gripped the country since the crackdown started.
Another small restaurant owner, Hernán, who shut his business down in response to the crackdown, echoed the same feelings. “Like, literally after [President Trump] deployed the national guard on D.C., it all froze up,” he said. He now seeks individuals fluent in both Spanish and English to help reopen his restaurant, which has remained shuttered since the crackdown began.
The effect of these changes goes far beyond any one business. In D.C., immigrants make up nearly 253,000—36% of the city’s—workers in the restaurant, hotel, and other service industries. In addition, there are at least 42,000 more self-employed immigrant entrepreneurs operating restaurants and other local food and service-sector businesses. These owners, who tend to be minority entrepreneurs, are hit especially hard by their closure. This scenario adds to increased economic insecurity in the neighborhood.
Maketto, a hybrid Asian restaurant and marketplace on D.C.’s northeast corridor, felt the short-term impact of the crackdown too. According to the organizers, two members of their staff were arrested while just walking home from work. Such incidents are representative of the increasingly violent landscape that immigrant workers have to traverse today.
As Rodriguez continues to process what she’ll do next, she is confident for the future. We are just testing it out to see how much we can make it work without closing for good,” she added. She is realistic about the challenges ahead. I get that it’s intended to only be for one month. Things are different now though, since you still have to cover the rent and utilities in the process.
For the immediate future of D.C.’s vibrant restaurant scene, it could spell disaster. SO– Owners such as Rodriguez and Hernán are working hard and creatively, and they’re continuing to pivot in a constantly changing landscape. The closure of establishments not only threatens their livelihoods but diminishes the rich cultural tapestry that immigrant entrepreneurs have woven into the fabric of the city.