In the history of fashion, few accessories have gone on to enjoy the cultural prestige of Jane Birkin’s wicker basket. The enchantment of the 1974 film festival in Cannes had inspired a dreamy day at the beach. In this iconic photograph, Birkin met Serge Gainsbourg, both impeccably fashionable in Americana-inspired flared denim jeans and white T-shirts. With each clang of her basket, summer style was created in her wake. Little did anyone realize that this humble accessory would one day blossom into the most popular symbol of Provence.
That strict, indirect outline of a basket that would come to shape Birkin’s aesthetic. Its elegant minimalism has ensured its place as an enduring style icon. The wicker picnic basket is having a big moment right now. It has since been rebranded as the cost-friendly substitution for the extravagant Birkin bag, one of the most expensive handbags on earth. Recent trends indicate that searches for Loewe’s raffia bags, resembling Birkin’s iconic piece, have skyrocketed by 1600% on Net-a-Porter over the last three months.
Traditionally, the basketwork industry had prospered in the south of France, especially around the commune of Vallabrègues. In the early 1900s, this small village was bursting with pride for its basketry museum. It was home to about 400 of the most skilled basketmakers in the world. Yet this important craft has practically died out, with only one active basketmaker left in her region of the country today.
Fashion stylist Sarah Corbett-Winder reminisces on the eternal charm of the basket bag. She personally owns at least 40 iterations based off of Birkin’s original creation. “It’s like a trend that’s never gone out of fashion,” she states. And it has a route that takes you to Jane Birkin. That bridge is what makes it feel so timeless and memorable, because she really is legendary.
Luxury brands, Loewe included, have leaned into this trend, helping make wicker bags that recall Birkin’s first look trendy again. At the same time, high street heroes like Next, New Look, Mango and M&S are producing more affordable copies of these basket bags. This comeback is a testament to the new age of affordable luxury—an era where consumers want stylish options without the premium price tag.
Tony Glenville, creative director at London College of Fashion, explains what makes the basket so alluring. “It’s such a weird story because as a useful bag it doesn’t really function,” he admits. He humorously describes how these bags should ideally hold “a sketching kit, some dog biscuits and a jar of homemade preserve,” pointing to their charm rather than practicality.