Topshop, at one time the linchpin of the UK high street and a lodestar of kids’ clothing, is returning from the dead. The brand’s fantasy-filled aesthetic enamored an entire generation of teenage girls throughout the 2000s and 2010s. Today, it’s on a mission to restore its past shine a decade after a bruising period. After the bankruptcy of Sir Philip Green’s Arcadia Group in 2020, the brand was bought by e-commerce company Asos. Now, as it prepares to host its first catwalk show in seven years at Trafalgar Square, industry experts wonder if Topshop can regain its cool and appeal to a new generation.
Topshop’s success wasn’t just the result of acting like a clothing store. It delivered an experience, not just a lifestyle, that resonated deeply with its target demographic. The store integrated music, makeup, and fashion trends into one cutting edge, sensory experience shopping environment. Clothes from Topshop could regularly be found on the pages of high-fashion magazines like Vogue, raising it to the same level as couture brands. The brand enjoyed a close association with model Cara Delevingne, who became a face of Topshop during its peak.
The former core demographic of Topshop was largely women in their late 20s and 30s. As fashion trends changed, a lot of these loyal customers outgrew the brand, and Topshop began to lose its sense of self. The revival plan for the brand is largely to win over younger consumers while bringing back the nostalgia of its old fans.
Topshop quickly rocketed to the top with the help of influential figures. Particular mention has to go to brand director Jane Shepherdson who really led the transformation. During her tenure, the brand under her leadership became synonymous with bold creativity and cutting-edge innovation. It was common to see huge crowds at Topshop’s flagship London store during the launch of collaborations with A-list celebrities such as Beyoncé and Kate Moss.
Yet the brand’s lofty goals have a huge mountain to climb with a competitive set led by fast fashion juggernaut Shein. Topshop boss Michelle Wilson, who today has the toughest job in fashion — to lead Topshop’s renaissance — is realistic about the journey.
“We want to deliver for those that are nostalgic for a brand that they felt like they lost,” – Michelle Wilson
Wilson stresses the importance of honoring that nostalgia, while acknowledging today’s fashion landscape. “We absolutely want to appeal to a new demographic as well,” she added. To do this, Topshop is going to double down on creating goods built on value, deep consumer research, and purposeful quality—including sustainability.
Wayne Hemingway, the legendary king of cool fashion commentator, muses nostalgically about Topshop’s previous forays into creative experimentation. He points out that the brand was once considered radical for introducing second-hand clothing lines within a department store setting.
“You had the collaborations, the London Fashion Walk catwalk, all this design and excitement at High Street prices. It was so fresh; everyone wanted to be part of it.” – Wayne Hemingway
As the new Topshop chips away at its comeback from bankruptcy, the company will need to balance its classic rock-star appeal with today’s realities. As Wilson explains, the increased prices are indicative of the more sustainable approach the company is taking at the moment. She stated, “If we’re just comparing Shein, then yes, I think most brands on the planet are at a higher price point than Shein.” That means Topshop is going to focus on quality and sustainability, instead of pumping out large volume, fast fashion pieces.
Amber Graafland, an Amsterdam-based fashion journalist, emphasizes this need for Topshop to be in touch with new consumer tastes. Her advice to them is to work hard. They need to appeal to younger girls who may not be as emotionally connected to the brand as millennials and Gen Xers.
“They will need to work hard to entice younger girls in,” – Amber Graafland
Which is exactly why Graafland says it’s crucial for Topshop to recreate “that buzz around it” once more. She especially wants people to know that fashion is only part of the answer. The brand experience The brand needs to deliver a lifestyle and experience that completely hooks its brand ambassador in.
Beyond refreshing its apparel assortment, Topshop plans to reintroduce other services that used to lure customers in. Skinny caramel lattes, hair and nail salons, and ear-piercing booths made the mall an enticing and pleasurable escape. That’s because these offerings transformed a mundane interaction into a rich experience.
Here’s hoping that Topshop is beginning an equally informative and thrilling new chapter. Its continued success will depend on the company’s promise to continue digging deep into nostalgia and lure a new generation of consumers. The catwalk show in Trafalgar Square will be a litmus test of the brand’s intentions and effectiveness.
“Fashion is only part of the story. It’s about selling a lifestyle and an experience,” – Amber Graafland