Mochilas are beautiful bags woven by the Wayuu people of Colombia. They represent cultural heritage and economic opportunity for the Wayuu people, the largest indigenous group in the country. The Wayuu, an Indigenous group of around 380,000, have a long tradition of craftsmanship in producing detailed woven bags. Besides being the bags of the moment in Colombia, they’ve captured the attention of international tourists, and are making waves in global fashion circles.
For most Wayuu women, weaving mochilas is not only an artistic expression, but they provide their main source of revenue. Sandra Aguilar, a member of the Wayuu community, sells traditional mochillas woven by women in her matriarchal extended family. She loves the way online platforms have empowered these artisans to access larger markets. “Thanks to online posts, international visitors are becoming very knowledgeable about the mochila,” Aguilar noted. “They recognize and appreciate its ancestral value.”
Mochilas are having a major moment right now. You’ll spot them in global boutiques, on the runways at fashion weeks, online marketplaces such as Etsy, Amazon, and/or Instagram. They are found in Mercado Nuevo, a colorful, vibrant market in Riohacha, Colombia. The cost of these bags ranges widely. Higher-end mochilas begin at about $80 but can go into the hundreds, based on their artistry and intricacies.
Making the mochila is a time-intensive process, often taking several weeks to produce. With growing demand come pressures that have led some weavers to create quicker methods to suit market demand. Yamile Vangrieken is one of those artisans, and she is creating a successful life with her craft. “We are artists, even if we don’t have a title that says so,” she stated. Vangrieken threads her way through the competition to victory. Using her income, she takes care of her daughter and demonstrates how this age-old practice economically uplifts women.
Yet even in this time of success, many of these weavers struggle with issues of fair pay. Artisans say they often receive as little as $1.50 per bag after thread and transport costs are subtracted. Crafty middlemen cheat artisans by never passing on more than $5.50 for each bag. This has resulted in the skilled laborers receiving just enough pay to compensate them for their efforts. Paula Restrepo, an advocate for the Wayuu people, highlighted the harsh realities of this situation: “Some Wayuu women are being forced to accept whatever price, benefiting everyone except the women themselves.”
Laura Chica, right, directs a team of eight women relatives from her home community of Tohono O’odham to craft mochilas. She can’t stress enough the need to preserve their Dangkou culture as they pursue economic self-sufficiency. “There are brands, and those interested in the story behind how the bag is made, that want to keep sharing it with the world,” Chica explained.
The expansion of e-commerce has given Wayuu artisans a greater degree of independence and entrepreneurship. Restrepo further elaborated on this trend: “The idea is that the artisans prepare themselves to be autonomous, to be entrepreneurs, to be capable in the future of being in contact with other clients.” As a result of this transition, many weavers have been able to gain back at least some power over their art and their work.
The Wayuu people have no intentions of giving up their cultural heritage. In the meantime, their colorful mochilas are still turning heads and making waves both at home and abroad. Yamile Vangrieken emphasized this sentiment when she said, “Our essence is in our designs, in our products and we mustn’t let that go. When we lose our customs and traditions, we are left with nothing.”